• Wear comfortable shoes (can't emphasize this enough)

• Load your camera with high-speed (800 asa or higher) film (most museums won't let you use your flash)

• Remember to stay hydrated, bring a water bottle.

• Avoid long lines, go early or get tickets or reservations ahead.

• Take advantage of chairs and benches, sit when you can.

• Change your perspective and rest your eyes from time to time--look out a window or close your eyes for a minute.

• Purchase the audio tour--a good one can bring the art to life and help you appreciate what you'd otherwise miss.

The Vatican's collection is so immense and so varied, it's impossible to adequately characterize it (or even summarize it) here. It spans everything from ancient Egypt (real mummies!) to twentieth century surrealists like Miró and Dali.

It also houses one of the best collections of Etruscan art in the world. I've been intrigued by the Etruscans, who inhabited parts of Italy long before the birth of Rome, developed a complex and thriving culture, and then rather suddenly disappeared. Not much is known about them (they always seem to be referred to as the "mysterious Etruscans"). They are an enigma that piques my curiosity.

While other parts of the museum were packed with people (most rushing to see the famed Sistine Chapel) the Etruscan collection was nearly empty, guards far outnumbering museum goers. The deeper I went, the fewer patrons I encountered, until finally I was alone with the guards.

Reaching the last room (a dead end, somehow fitting for the Etruscans) I turned around. With a stern expression, the young guard fastened a red velvet rope across the doorway. "You can no leave." he said, watching my face for a reaction.

"You mean I get to stay here, with all this beautiful art? How wonderful!" I smiled at him, and with a flourish he returned my smile, unfastened the rope and allowed me to pass.

(mouse over the thumbnail photos for larger images)

Next: Ancient Rome by Moonlight