Thumb's Up! A "don't miss" delicacy. When it's the season, treat yourself.

This time of year, the chestnut vendors are on every downtown street, and the roaster's aroma is a distinctive rich and earthy note of autumn. I bought my first paper coneful from this fellow just outside Vatican City.

The taste was wonderful--warm, soft, buttery, smoky. After my purchase (a small cone is L 3,000), I asked the seller if I could take his picture. He responded by smiling broadly, picking up his tongs, banging the roaster loudly and gesturing widely with a "thumb's up."

After I snapped the shot and thanked him, I started to walk away. He called after me, waving his hands. I came back, and he reached beside himself and pulled out a business card. As he pressed the card into my palm, he kissed me on both cheeks.

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