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CHAPTER 24 LOCATION: Rome SUBJECT: Baptized in the Pantheon
 

Marbled Splendor
The Christian features, such as this Annunciation, were added after the building was consecrated as a Catholic church in A.D. 609.

Miracle?
Rome's notoriously marshy ground has played havoc with its architecture over the centuries, bringing down the most massive monuments by virtue of its unstable surface. But by some miracle, the Pantheon still solidly stands.


The Pantheon is not just another of Rome's many attractions--it is the best preserved structure of its age and size, anywhere. The building, in its current incarnation, was begun in 118 A.D., although this ground has hosted a temple of one kind or another since before recorded history.

Entering through the portico, I delighted in the richly patterned marble assembled in an elegant geometry of circles, squares and rectangles. Far above, the awesome dome spans the enormous space overhead, its center punctuated with a bright oculus, open to the elements

I stood underneath and felt the light rain as it fell, unimpeded, into the center of the building. as though I were being baptized by nature itself (the floor below has small openings to allow the water to drain away).

There's a certain feeling, difficult to put into words, standing on a spot which has been considered sacred for millennia.

Perhaps it was just good politics for Emperor Hadrian to build this "temple dedicated to all gods," but I like to think of it as an enlightened attempt to acknowledge the diversity of faith.

Next: Forward to Florence

Oculus
The dome of the Pantheon (at 142 feet, the world's largest until Florence's Duomo over 1300 years later) features a 27-foot opening which lets in light and air, and reduces the dome's weight.

 
 
 
 
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