As romantic as a visit to a castle by the sea sounded, my tired legs and feet protested as I ascended the stone staircase, step by careful step. My progress was further slowed by the plastic bag from the hostel I had grasped in one hand, now full to the brim with trash from the trail.

Reaching the top, we stopped to catch our breath, and look around. High above Vernazza, we picked out the village landmarks, including the church, the school and the town cemetery, using Rick Steves' guidebook.

Then we ducked through a doorway at the top of the castle, and entered a series of stone walled rooms. Another tourist followed us, and lit his lighter so we could see in the increasing darkness, but there wasn't that much to view: the the interiors were empty, except for the pungent smell of urine. So much for romance.

Seagull Eye's View
From the top of the castle turret, it's a long way down.

When emerged from the rank darkness, the castle was awash in pink light. Is there anything in the world that can make you feel lonelier than a spectacular sunset?

Alone, Alone, all, all Alone,
Alone on a wide wide sea!
And never a saint took pity on
My soul in agony.
-- Samuel Taylor Coleridge,
The Rime of the Ancient Mariner

Next: Abrupt Change of Plans