My home is a castle, Finale Ligure, Italy. When I heard I could stay in a romantic brick castle for hostel prices, I couldn't resist checking out the Castello Vuillermin, even though it meant climbing hundreds of stairs with my heavy pack at mid-day in searing temperatures with a bone-dry water bottle.

When at last I reached the door, I found it locked. I went around the back, and knocked until someone answered. Near delirious, I begged for some water and use of a bathroom. The young woman seemed annoyed at being disturbed during lockout, but went to ask permission of the lady of the house, who (saints be praised!) did not deny me. I filled, drank, and re-filled my water bottle, soaked my bandana and splashed my face.

Not wanting to leave my bag unsecured, and definitely not wanting to carry it down and up those stairs again, I lay on the carpet of olive leaves in the front yard, my head propped on my bag. I savored the magnificent view, and rested, moving with the shade until they opened the doors at 5 p.m.

Despite the strict lockout and curfew, and the monumental stair-climb to get into town and back, I I would still highly recommend Castello Vuillermin.

Castello Vuillermin
Via G. Caviglia 46, Finale Ligure
tel/fax: 039.019.690515