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Although it was very hot weather at the time, I liked Ferrara, a town with more bicycles than people. Not shiny, sleek Italian racers, either, but ordinary folk, young and old, on sturdy, venerable road bikes with baskets for daily errands. The prevalence of bicycles meant that automobile traffic was much reduced, creating a slow-paced, peaceful, friendly atmosphere in the streets. Because of the comparative lack of tourists here, people were very nice to me and curious about me. But as the searing weather continued, I was at last driven from my un-airconditioned little room, heading for the refreshment of the sea.
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