The art of the bullfight, Seville, Spain. I was conflicted: I always want to experience the cultures I visit, but -- bullfighting? As a mostly vegetarian and total animal lover, I wasn't sure I wanted to see that. What to do?

Exploring the many charms of Seville, deep in Spain's south, I finally decided to give bullfighting a chance. But first, I visited the museum of bullfighting, attached to the arena.

On the tour, I got a close look at the history, equipment and pageantry of the sport, narrated by a well-informed English-speaking guide. Among the many interesting articles were spangly toreador costumes, portraits of famous fighters, and even the stuffed head of the only bull to have "won" his fight in this ring (he was killed, anyway).

Knowing more about how the fight would proceed made the actual experience much richer and more meaningful. In fact, I found myself really getting a charge out of being there--the crowd cheering, the band playing, the fighters posing, arching their backs as they artfully dodged the charging bulls.

All this glorious display did not, however, dull my horror at seeing the first bull, dazed and bloody, stagger to its knees to be slaughtered before my eyes.

Is it culture or cruelty? Undeniably, it is both.